Roaming the land of Gods – Uttarakhand
It is an inevitable call from within that you can’t ignore but concede. A call to do a ‘yatra’ in the hills. Year on year, we get ready to roam the land of Gods – Uttarakhand. A divine place in the lap of the majestic Himalayas. We had been visiting different places in this land but yet we feel our desire to explore further is never diminished. There is so much to devour that one life may not be enough to see it all.
June 10th, 2011 was the date for this year’s exploration. Me and my wife (by now she too has become an ardent lover of this beautiful land) set off early in the morning with somewhat a fixed itinerary viz., Delhi-Pauri-Nauti-Gwaldam-Mandoli and back. The idea was always to visit the places “off the beaten track”. I am sure that not many people would have heard about these places, some of them may not exist on even a Google map!!
The road was surprisingly very good with the new Toll Road covering about a 100kms and the rest of the road being fairly good. There was too much traffic due to the pilgrims going to the Chardham yatra. We reached Deoprayag (the confluence of rivers Bhagirathi and Alakananda) and filled up our car tank at the petrol pump. Here the attendant told us the road from Deoprayag to Pauri is a better road than the route via Srinagar so we opted to do the same. A few metres away from this pump one can find a deep U-turn to the right, leading to a rough steep road going down the hill. This continued even after crossing The Ganges for about 3kms. The road became better later but for next 20 kms the surface was not good. Also there were places where it looked like some land slides keep happening. It is indeed dangerous to come this way. From a village 20kms short of Pauri the road has become better so was relieved. We seem to have taken the wrong road to approach the GMVN TRH at Pauri as we had taken a long time to reach it winding up and down after reaching the town of Pauri.
It is an inevitable call from within that you can’t ignore but concede. A call to do a ‘yatra’ in the hills. Year on year, we get ready to roam the land of Gods – Uttarakhand. A divine place in the lap of the majestic Himalayas. We had been visiting different places in this land but yet we feel our desire to explore further is never diminished. There is so much to devour that one life may not be enough to see it all.
June 10th, 2011 was the date for this year’s exploration. Me and my wife (by now she too has become an ardent lover of this beautiful land) set off early in the morning with somewhat a fixed itinerary viz., Delhi-Pauri-Nauti-Gwaldam-Mandoli and back. The idea was always to visit the places “off the beaten track”. I am sure that not many people would have heard about these places, some of them may not exist on even a Google map!!
The road was surprisingly very good with the new Toll Road covering about a 100kms and the rest of the road being fairly good. There was too much traffic due to the pilgrims going to the Chardham yatra. We reached Deoprayag (the confluence of rivers Bhagirathi and Alakananda) and filled up our car tank at the petrol pump. Here the attendant told us the road from Deoprayag to Pauri is a better road than the route via Srinagar so we opted to do the same. A few metres away from this pump one can find a deep U-turn to the right, leading to a rough steep road going down the hill. This continued even after crossing The Ganges for about 3kms. The road became better later but for next 20 kms the surface was not good. Also there were places where it looked like some land slides keep happening. It is indeed dangerous to come this way. From a village 20kms short of Pauri the road has become better so was relieved. We seem to have taken the wrong road to approach the GMVN TRH at Pauri as we had taken a long time to reach it winding up and down after reaching the town of Pauri.
Lovely purple flowers in front of Tourist Rest House at Pauri
It was a pleasant stay at Pauri, the rooms were fitted with wooden flooring, a clean bathroom with Geyser (for hot water). We had been here a couple of times before and we used to get a panoramic view of the Himalayas (Unfortunately due to heavy clouds we couldn’t see any Himalayan range). The food was tolerable. Through out our trip we were drinking bottled water. An expensive necessity, tip for travelers is to stock your car with either a 5 litre or two litre bottles.
It was a pleasant stay at Pauri, the rooms were fitted with wooden flooring, a clean bathroom with Geyser (for hot water). We had been here a couple of times before and we used to get a panoramic view of the Himalayas (Unfortunately due to heavy clouds we couldn’t see any Himalayan range). The food was tolerable. Through out our trip we were drinking bottled water. An expensive necessity, tip for travelers is to stock your car with either a 5 litre or two litre bottles.
Fairly Large town of Pauri – view from TRH
So far: Day 1 was travelling, Day 2 was at Pauri and Day 3 we started for Nauti.
Day3: Left for Nauti at 730am. Before we left Gurgaon I got a message on a travel forum that there are heavy rains in Uttarakhand which means possible landslides and it almost frightened me off. I was told that there has been a landslide between Srinagar to Rudraprayag which sometimes delays the traffic for hours. This landslide keeps happening every year and has already started happening. I was debating on taking the route via Khirsu to join the Rudraprayag route after this landslide place but was advised against it due to very bad road condition. So took the road via Srinagar and hoped for the best. When we reached that dangerous point we were relieved to see that the road was clear and some one was managing the traffic on both sides by alternating the flow. Right when we started on this patch a SUV tried to over take me to get there first and forced me to stop suddenly only to find a taxi Qualis rammed into my car fender.We did not stop as we would have put a lot of people under tension (who are eagerly waiting to cross this dangerous stretch) so proceeded on.
The journey upto Gauchar was uneventful and stopped at the GMVN TRH for breakfast. Had some Aloo Paranthas and Coffee. Used the restroom. Bought some vegetables, fruits and started back on our last lap to our next destination – NAUTI. We were advised by the Manager at Gauchar that at Karnaprayag there will be 3 roads and was to take the middle one. This led us to the city of Karnaprayag and while we were enquiring the route to Nauti a policeman told us that one of his staff is going to a village on the same route who will help us. So we picked him up and proceeded. After a few kilometers we take a right turn to Nauti. The road was just OK and very narrow. At certain places the surface was also bad and had a doubt if we could drive to Nauti. We ventured ahead with some encouragement and support from my wife. Through these winding and narrow roads we reached the GMVN TRH. The TRH is situated on the hillside going down the hill from the little market.
The TRH is in an isolated place with 6 double rooms on the first floor and a 10 bedded dormitory in the ground floor. The Kitchen and the dining hall were located at he GF. We were the only inhabitants both a plus and a minus. Minus as it is a bit scary being alone and so far from home. We loved the room with a huge verandah. The whole place was ours so made it even better. The rooms and the place were kept unusually clean, we couldn’t find a speck anywhere.
So far: Day 1 was travelling, Day 2 was at Pauri and Day 3 we started for Nauti.
Day3: Left for Nauti at 730am. Before we left Gurgaon I got a message on a travel forum that there are heavy rains in Uttarakhand which means possible landslides and it almost frightened me off. I was told that there has been a landslide between Srinagar to Rudraprayag which sometimes delays the traffic for hours. This landslide keeps happening every year and has already started happening. I was debating on taking the route via Khirsu to join the Rudraprayag route after this landslide place but was advised against it due to very bad road condition. So took the road via Srinagar and hoped for the best. When we reached that dangerous point we were relieved to see that the road was clear and some one was managing the traffic on both sides by alternating the flow. Right when we started on this patch a SUV tried to over take me to get there first and forced me to stop suddenly only to find a taxi Qualis rammed into my car fender.We did not stop as we would have put a lot of people under tension (who are eagerly waiting to cross this dangerous stretch) so proceeded on.
The journey upto Gauchar was uneventful and stopped at the GMVN TRH for breakfast. Had some Aloo Paranthas and Coffee. Used the restroom. Bought some vegetables, fruits and started back on our last lap to our next destination – NAUTI. We were advised by the Manager at Gauchar that at Karnaprayag there will be 3 roads and was to take the middle one. This led us to the city of Karnaprayag and while we were enquiring the route to Nauti a policeman told us that one of his staff is going to a village on the same route who will help us. So we picked him up and proceeded. After a few kilometers we take a right turn to Nauti. The road was just OK and very narrow. At certain places the surface was also bad and had a doubt if we could drive to Nauti. We ventured ahead with some encouragement and support from my wife. Through these winding and narrow roads we reached the GMVN TRH. The TRH is situated on the hillside going down the hill from the little market.
The TRH is in an isolated place with 6 double rooms on the first floor and a 10 bedded dormitory in the ground floor. The Kitchen and the dining hall were located at he GF. We were the only inhabitants both a plus and a minus. Minus as it is a bit scary being alone and so far from home. We loved the room with a huge verandah. The whole place was ours so made it even better. The rooms and the place were kept unusually clean, we couldn’t find a speck anywhere.
TRH at Nauti and my faithful car
From the verandah we could see the Nanda Devi mandir and at a distance we could see the Shiv mandir. We gave all the vegetables to the cook and ordered our lunch menu. After lunch I gathered some energy from the potato dish and walked to the Nanda Devi temple only to find that it was closed. I was advised by the locals that I can walk from the back side to enter the temple premises. Went and took some pictures, it seems that the Pujari comes only in the mornings. Had darshan with out the pujari and returned to the room.
From the verandah we could see the Nanda Devi mandir and at a distance we could see the Shiv mandir. We gave all the vegetables to the cook and ordered our lunch menu. After lunch I gathered some energy from the potato dish and walked to the Nanda Devi temple only to find that it was closed. I was advised by the locals that I can walk from the back side to enter the temple premises. Went and took some pictures, it seems that the Pujari comes only in the mornings. Had darshan with out the pujari and returned to the room.
Famous Nanda Devi Temple from where the Raaj Jat starts every 12 years
Life here seems to be slow and time seems to have stopped as such. Nothing is happening, so we walked to the tiny so called market. To our surprise we found that there is actually a State Bank of India and also a Post Office. There are about 20 shops.
When we arrived at the TRH I felt that the right front tyre is a bit flatter and was wondering what to do at this remote place. The staff at TRH told me to my relief that there is a tyre repair shop. The shop keeper told me that all is well and nothing to worry.
Life here seems to be slow and time seems to have stopped as such. Nothing is happening, so we walked to the tiny so called market. To our surprise we found that there is actually a State Bank of India and also a Post Office. There are about 20 shops.
When we arrived at the TRH I felt that the right front tyre is a bit flatter and was wondering what to do at this remote place. The staff at TRH told me to my relief that there is a tyre repair shop. The shop keeper told me that all is well and nothing to worry.
We walked around for a while and returned to TRH. In the evening we enjoyed the view from the verandah and saw Nanda Gunti mountain. We can only get a small view of the Himalayas and that is Nanda Gunti. It is nice to spend hours sitting in the verandah and breathing fresh and clean air. Back home it will be a luxury to expect it.
Nanda Gunti Mountain as seen from TRH at Nauti
The routine repeated the next day, the day being interrupted y occasional rain. During the walk in the market we found several people playing carroms and at one place right on the side of the road they were playing it on an elevated stool all players in standing position. What an intense passion for the game!. Did our sports authorities explore this area to find the champion?
It started raining in the night and I was hoping that the road will be almost as good on my return trip.
Day 5: Started the journey to Gwaldam at about 8am after a simple breakfast. Luckily the road surface did not deteriorate due to the night rains and we made good progress to Simi and then to Tharali. On the road from Tharali to Gwaldam at one place the road was bad and even though we were driving very slow at snail’s pace heard a big thud when the ground stuck the underbelly of my car. I always thought that Honda Civic has the biggest ground clearance but invariably the car gets hit by stones. Nothing we could do except pray that no damage is done and it was so. Lucky once again.
The whole journey is very good as the road runs along the Pindari river all through, some times very close to it and some times at a great height. The scenery is good and the winding road went past two more villages viz Narayan… and Thal. Suddenly we come across a bend in the road and to the right we see SSB Training centre (Sahasthra Seema Bal) and after a few minutes drive arrive at the Forest rest House at Gwaldam. The entrance is to the left and amidst small shops. There was a gate which was locked from inside and we hailed a person doing some gardening. Later we found that he was the care taker of the FRH. We were a bit tired after having driven about 500 kms from Gurgaon.
The FRH was kept very clean and neat. We were given a suite with two bedrooms, an enclosed verandah and a beautiful bathroom. The verandah had a table and sofas to relax. The double bedded rooms have a dressing table, an antique looking cupboard with double beds and to our liking a fireplace!!. My wife loves such a place and she did.
The routine repeated the next day, the day being interrupted y occasional rain. During the walk in the market we found several people playing carroms and at one place right on the side of the road they were playing it on an elevated stool all players in standing position. What an intense passion for the game!. Did our sports authorities explore this area to find the champion?
It started raining in the night and I was hoping that the road will be almost as good on my return trip.
Day 5: Started the journey to Gwaldam at about 8am after a simple breakfast. Luckily the road surface did not deteriorate due to the night rains and we made good progress to Simi and then to Tharali. On the road from Tharali to Gwaldam at one place the road was bad and even though we were driving very slow at snail’s pace heard a big thud when the ground stuck the underbelly of my car. I always thought that Honda Civic has the biggest ground clearance but invariably the car gets hit by stones. Nothing we could do except pray that no damage is done and it was so. Lucky once again.
The whole journey is very good as the road runs along the Pindari river all through, some times very close to it and some times at a great height. The scenery is good and the winding road went past two more villages viz Narayan… and Thal. Suddenly we come across a bend in the road and to the right we see SSB Training centre (Sahasthra Seema Bal) and after a few minutes drive arrive at the Forest rest House at Gwaldam. The entrance is to the left and amidst small shops. There was a gate which was locked from inside and we hailed a person doing some gardening. Later we found that he was the care taker of the FRH. We were a bit tired after having driven about 500 kms from Gurgaon.
The FRH was kept very clean and neat. We were given a suite with two bedrooms, an enclosed verandah and a beautiful bathroom. The verandah had a table and sofas to relax. The double bedded rooms have a dressing table, an antique looking cupboard with double beds and to our liking a fireplace!!. My wife loves such a place and she did.
Forest Rest House at Gwaldam
The days were a bit warm but nights were very quiet and cold calling us to use the thick ‘rozai’ provided. The care taker here is also the unofficial cook and he made us fresh meals and we enjoyed them. One day we had chicken curry. All the dishes he made were delicious, my wife tells me that everything tastes nice to me when I am amidst the Himalayas. That is true to a great extent.
I used to sit out most of the time watching the hills, the mighty Deodhar trees or the occasional monkey brigade who visited the premises as if their own place. They act almost like humans especially taking care of the young ones and cuddling them.
In the nights we used to walk up and down the path in front of the FRH and enjoy the cool air and some times gazing at the stars. Back at home we could hardly see any stars due to pollution.
Whenever the skies are clear we used to walk down to the gate of the SSB training center from where one can get a beautiful view of the Himalayas. Right next to the FRH is a pond with colored water (never got cleaned I suppose) but from a distance gives a beautiful picture of the FRH. This was the picture which prompted me to come to Gwaldam the first time, but unfortunately we mistook it for the GMVN guesthouse and had to settle to do without it. This time we made sure we stayed at the FRH.
The days were a bit warm but nights were very quiet and cold calling us to use the thick ‘rozai’ provided. The care taker here is also the unofficial cook and he made us fresh meals and we enjoyed them. One day we had chicken curry. All the dishes he made were delicious, my wife tells me that everything tastes nice to me when I am amidst the Himalayas. That is true to a great extent.
I used to sit out most of the time watching the hills, the mighty Deodhar trees or the occasional monkey brigade who visited the premises as if their own place. They act almost like humans especially taking care of the young ones and cuddling them.
In the nights we used to walk up and down the path in front of the FRH and enjoy the cool air and some times gazing at the stars. Back at home we could hardly see any stars due to pollution.
Whenever the skies are clear we used to walk down to the gate of the SSB training center from where one can get a beautiful view of the Himalayas. Right next to the FRH is a pond with colored water (never got cleaned I suppose) but from a distance gives a beautiful picture of the FRH. This was the picture which prompted me to come to Gwaldam the first time, but unfortunately we mistook it for the GMVN guesthouse and had to settle to do without it. This time we made sure we stayed at the FRH.
Clouds covering the mighty Trishul as seen from GwaldamDue to the monkey menace we had to keep the front door locked all the time, anyway who stayed indoors? Every day we used to go for a walk into the village with its shopping and the bus stand. There are many dhabas serving the popular Chinese and there was one fairly large restaurant serving local sweets including the ‘bal-mithai’, a blackish brown milk sweet topped with small sugar pills.
On the ninth day we left Gwaldam for home and planned to stay at Srinagar. We made good progress and went to Gauchar for a quick bite and drink. We were lucky to find the road near the landslide clear and we could pass through with ease. The only problem through out the journey was the traffic. A part of the road between Rudraprayag and Srinagar was one way which made it easy to drive. We cross the river Alakananda and join the main highway after a steep U-urn to the right.
We reached Srinagar in the afternoon and checked into a double room with Air-cooler. The room is just OK but we didn’t bother as it was for a few hours till morning. We had lunch at the restaurant.
The food in the night was terrible as they served the samefood so a bit stale. We could not eat and we didn’t pay either.
The market is busy and the GMVN TRH was full with pilgrims either going to or returning from the Chardham yatras. To douse the bad taste after the dinner we walked to a nearby shop and had ice cream which was good. There are many dhabas and the one just opposite to the TRH looked good.
On day 10 we had coffee in the morning, had bath and left for home. The road was patchy between Srinagar and Deoprayag but later was good.
We stopped at the Dosa Plaza and ordered Dosas and coffee which were terrible. The place looked very dirty. On the way back we bought very good mangoes almost whenever we spotted them so ended up with about 10Kgs, later we found that the fruits tasted really nice being fresh from the gardens.
Weaving through the Delhi traffic arrived at Gurgaon at about 1830 after having driven exactly 1100kms.
The car behaved very well only I had scarred the under carriage going over a bad road hump.
We had a good time away in the Himalayas and look forward to another one soon. Both of us are a bit tired due to long hours sitting in the car.
Well it is worth roaming the land of Gods, so what if we are a bit tired!
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